JULY 2026 42 G rowing up, I was exposed to most of the commonly hated vegetables. Asparagus, rutabaga, pattypan squash, Brussels sprouts, broccoli and cabbage frequented my plate – all those but spaghetti squash. To this day it’s hard to believe that some folks haven’t heard of it or have only discovered it for the first time as adults. Because it’s a football-shaped, bright- yellow gourd, some walk right past it in the grocery store assuming it’s an ornamental decoration rather than an edible vegetable. What we know as spaghetti squash today was officially recorded in 1850 in Manchuria, China and developed as a fodder crop called “shark-fin gourd.” It was given this name because its stringy, noodle-like flesh closely resembled finely shredded shark fin which was a popular and affordable substitute in traditional soups. While the exact origins of how the squash arrived in China is unknown, it was a plentiful food source. We owe a debt of thanks to Takeo Sakata who founded Sakata Seed Corporation in 1913 and for six decades researched and improved a variety of this squash. By the 1920s, the seed traveled to Japan where it was commercially marketed as “noodle squash.” In the 1930s, Sakata was the exclusive marketer in the United States and as his breeding techniques improved, he licensed the seeds to W. Atlee Burpee who then brought it to North America in 1936 and sold it in the catalog under the name “vegetable spaghetti.” During World War II, it served as a vital, low-cost substitute for traditional pasta. Because wartime rationing and supply chain disruptions made processed foods and grains scarce, home cooks utilized the squash’s naturally stringy texture to stretch their food budgets. Throughout the 20th century, it continued to appear in seed catalogs. In 1960, Sakata reintroduced the seed line to the market in hopes of gaining more appeal. In 1964 the English seed company Thompson and Morgan, which had a wide American distribution of catalogs, showcased the plant. California started growing it as a healthier alternative to traditional spaghetti and by the early 1970s the Green Revolution and the back-to-the-land movement exploded across America. The rise of natural foods and eating ‘healthy’ got intertwined with the idea of eating unprocessed foods. Then came the 1980s and 90s when the low-fat and low carb movements sparked even more interest in calorie-conscious folks. Knowing that the flesh of this squash had long been compared with noodles, for the first time, it was being marketed as a healthier alternative. Mr. Sakata died in 1984. He didn’t live to see the success of his new ‘Tivoli’ squash variety, which was suitable for pots and container gardens, but he did live long enough to see the Manchurian shark-fin gourd he first cultivated some 90 years earlier reach its potential. Spaghetti squash had finally come into the limelight. All it took was a shift in food culture for consumers to embrace it. Now it’s widely available at farmers markets, grocery stores, and through online seed catalogs across the world. We are told to “eat the rainbow” with a variety of veggies – green, purple, red, yellow, orange – to access the widest range of nutrients. When you add spaghetti squash’s yellow sunniness, nutrients like vitamin A, vitamin C, potassium, calcium, fiber, antioxidants, and beta-carotene (the substance that makes carrots orange) are present. Growing this robust squash is surprisingly easy and rewarding if you have enough room in your garden for it to sprawl. It’s a fast-growing annual with plump stems that can reach up to eight feet long with dinnerplate-size, three- lobed leaves. There’s no need for special soil, but it must be nutrient-rich, loamy or slightly sandy and well-draining. To ensure a good harvest, slip in a few extra plants or other squash varieties nearby to encourage the bees to perform their magic. If you choose to plant seeds do so in March or July, and into early August. Seeds will germinate and emerge within 7 to 10 days. Stunning yellow, star-shaped flowers will appear in around 30 to 40 days. At first mostly will be male, followed shortly by female flowers. After the female flowers are pollinated, the green oblong squash will start to grow. This is when patience comes into play because it takes 90-120 days before they mature. I recommend watering by hand so you can target the water directly to the root zone and keep the foliage dry. Like other squashes, these are prone to powdery mildew and other fungal diseases. As heavy feeders they need regular fertilizing that’s low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus. Companion planting of marigolds and nasturtiums helps to repel aphids and draw pests away as a “trap crop.” Beneficial insects like bees and ladybugs need a little encouragement to come visit. Most squash starts out a pale green. Harvest time is approaching when you see the color change from creamy white to pale yellow then to a canary yellow. The next sign will be a bit subtler – in fact, you may not even notice a change, but if you watch closely the surface of the squash will become less glossy. Press your thumbnail into the rind. It should be tough to pierce. If the fruits are sitting on the ground, flip one over and look for a slightly lighter yellow spot on the bottom. It’s essential that they’re allowed to fully ripen on the vine because they won’t ripen once cut from the stem. As the season progresses you will start to see the vines and leaves die off and turn brown. When this happens, it’s a sure sign your squash is ready to be removed. Leave at least two inches of the stem intact and resist harvesting all at once. The squash will be happy sitting in a bowl on the counter for up to a month. In the refrigerator they will last even longer. Before cooking, the flesh is solid and looks just like any other raw squash. It earns its “magical” reputation because of its dense, moist, neutral-flavored, fibrous flesh that when cooked, falls away in ribbons resembling spaghetti noodles, hence its name. It’s delicate both in texture and taste. With a mildly sweet and nutty flavor it will absorb a wide variety of sauces like Bolognese, marinara, garlic pesto, curry or browned butter mixed with parmesan or gruyere. It pairs well with fresh herbs such as thyme, basil, oregano, parsley, sage and mint. Because it’s not as sweet as acorn or butternut, once dried, the strands are a perfect addition to mixed salads. This squash can be difficult to slice and does take determination. Don’t be bashful asking someone in the produce section to vertically cut and wrap the halves for you. At home you can pierce the squash about a dozen times with a fork then pop it in the microwave and cook it for three-four minutes. The heat transforms the hard shell into something more manageable. This trick works with all hard-skinned squashes that can be cooked whole, sliced vertically in half or cut in rings. Use a chef’s knife on a stable cutting surface (it helps to lay a damp kitchen towel or paper towel beneath the cutting board) and proceed. Vertically cut the squash in half or slice the squash into rings widthwise, not lengthwise. The fibers inside run horizontally, so cutting across them shortens the strands, cutting with the grain preserves their full length. Don’t discard the seeds, instead spread them on a baking sheet with a sprinkle of chili powder and salt and roast for a crunchy snack! For either method, drizzle with olive oil ( not vegetable oil) and season generously with ground pepper. Wait to salt until after it’s cooked which will guarantee that it roasts evenly – salt draws out excess moisture that can lead to uneven cooking. With spaghetti squash you want to preserve the subtle delicate floral flavor that is very different from other winter squash varieties. The goal is to strive for consistent al dente texture perfection. For vertically cut squash, place cut side down in a size appropriate baking dish and place in a 400° oven and roast for 30-35 minutes. Pull the dish out of the oven and turn one of the halves over. Drag the tines of a fork through the flesh and if it shreds easily, it’s ready. If not, continue roasting cut side down, checking on it every few minutes. Over-roasting leads to sogginess so keep a close eye! Thyme in My Kitchen BY SHERRY KLUSMAN thyme.in.my.kitchen Roast at 400 for 35-40 minutes INGREDIENTS • 1 large spaghetti squash, halved and seeded • 1 tbsp. olive oil • ¼ tsp. ground black pepper PLATED • 1 tbsp. butter • 2 sage leaves • 1 small garlic clove, minced • ¼ cup minced fresh herbs (chives, thyme, parsley) • ½ tsp. sea salt • ½ cup gruyère cheese, grated DIRECTIONS 1. In a large skillet fry the sage leaves in butter until brown, add minced garlic. 2. Cook 1 ½ minutes. Remove leaves, add the spaghetti squash, toss with herb mixture and salt. 3. Heat through. Remove from heat and fold in gruyère cheese. 4. Adjust with salt and black pepper to taste. Spaghei squash with browned buer & gruyère A SQUASH BY ANY OTHER NAME … JULY RECOMMENDATIONS COOKBOOK: “Simply Delicious Vegetarian” by Carla Bardi NOVEL: “Looking for Me” by Beth Hoffman

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